WINE TIME: Jim Shirley of The Fish House

Let's add a grape varietal to your wine vocabulary this week - Malbec.

With rich, red fruit and aggressive tannins, this grape is famous for being one of a half-dozen exclusive grapes allowed in classic Bordeaux blends. However, the climate in France isn't quite right for the heat-loving Malbec vines, which need a lot of sun exposure and just the right amount of water. And it's highly susceptible to frost.

The Mendoza region of Argentina, however, has the perfect climate for this grape. It was inevitable that Mendoza, with it's hot, dry climate, well-draining soil, and controllable irrigation water melting from the Andes' peaks would be an area well planted with this finicky grape.
I've had great Malbecs from around the world, but I want to introduce some great values from Argentina. I offer five Malbec wines from the area that I have adopted at the house. All are deep purple and rich with ripe fruits.

• Mendel: Medium body with a bit of tobacco and raspberry ($20).
• Mapema: Blackberry fruit and assertive oak ($20).
• Ben Marco: Full-bodied, with strong cherry flavors ($20).
• Crios de Susana Balbo: Upfront blackberry, hints of oak and mint ($13).
• Lote 44: A young wine; the best for entertaining ($10).
Argentine wines have gained respect from critics the world over. See if you agree.

The Fish House, 600 S. Barracks St., Pensacola. 470-0003, or visit www.goodgrits.com.